It’s a true story of rags to riches. Gabrielle Bonheur, born in 1883, would later be known by the world as Coco Chanel. Her mother died when she was 12 years old, her alcoholic father shortly after left her and her four siblings at an orphanage. This is where she grew up and learnt to sew, after her school years, she moved to Paris and set up her label.
It is no secret that she had numerous lovers and gentlemen that led her into the exclusive and glamour scene in Paris, they supported her financially and she lived with many of them. The first notable man being Etienne Balsan, where she lived and learnt to ride (he owned many horses). With him, she was able to go to the races, which is where she first found her client base amongst the upper class ladies. She started by making hats, though they were understated and simple, which immediately set her apart from the otherwise extravagant and flamboyant hats that were the fashion.
In 1913, Coco Chanel opened her first boutique, on 31 Rue Cambon in Paris, where it still resides today. It was with the help of the ‘love of her life’ Arthur ‘Boy’ Chapel that she finally began designing clothes; he gave her a loan to buy the property. Coco and Arthur would live together for the next ten years, although he married another woman, as Coco’s modest family roots were not in keeping with his status.
Following the First World War, the role of women became more liberal. Coco saw this and designed a new wardrobe for women, more casual, liberal, and inspired from men’s suits. Women’s skirts became shorter, and the cut straighter. Her first collection was an immediate success; the key to her success was her risk taking, ability to develop trends, and her steady business decisions. Soon there after, she set up an atelier, employed seamstresses that helped with the finer detailing, and soon expanded production to Biarritz. Her client list grew, including the Spanish Royal Family, and European heiresses.
In 1921 she developed the worlds most sold perfume, No.5; that still has today, a timeless elegance. The name simply came from Coco as she was testing the samples, the fifth bottle being labeled No. 5, her favorite, and the name remained. Her greatest design came in 1926, with the ‘little black dress’ that was simple, straight lined and sophisticated. Vogue labeled it ‘A Ford signed Chanel’, a design attainable to the masses. She revolutionized the colour black, which had up until then only been worn for funerals and waitressing. Black became a colour that could be worn daily, made casual and chic. Her designs reached America by way of Vogue, she was soon high in demand in Hollywood, designing for film company MGM.
When the Second World War arrived, the struggles began for Chanel, due to the recession, her boutiques were forced to close, only the production of No.5 continued. Coco then also began an affair with a German Officer, her association got her arrested, although she was later released, fearing that the news would damage her image, she moved to Switzerland for several years. Her come-back came in the early 1950’s, when she created the Chanel Suit, characterized by the short tailored jacket and knee-length skirt, it was also during this time that the quilted 2.55 handbag was created. The hidden pockets were rumored to have been designed to house her love letters.
In early 1971, Coco Chanel died in her sleep, in her suite at the hotel Ritz in Paris. Just a few weeks later her last self-designed collection was shown. However, no one managed to keep the company going, its future looking unsteady, until the appointment of Karl Lagerfeld as Creative Director in 1983. He is still leading Chanel today, with two haute couture collections and two prêt-a-porter collections per year.
J X
text by J.
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